Jo's Diamonds

The newest addition to the complex,
 The Diamond Jo National River Ctr

I spent Sunday afternoon with a fellow history buff roaming through the National Mississippi River Museum and Aquarium. After all was said and done it cost a mere fifty four million to transform the modest original museum into a sprawling urbane complex located in the Port of Dubuque. The museum boasts aquariums (both fresh and salt water) replete with sea life from both north and south waters along with various live critters that inhabit the area. Part of the new edition consists of a state of the art 3D/4D theatre, concession stand included, which vends popcorn and overpriced jujus. I do understand that the times, they are a changin’, but I miss the old setup.

The Woodward Riverboat Museum
(before National River Museum)

Housed in the old Iowa Iron Works (later renamed Dubuque Boat and Boiler Works) the Woodward Riverboat Museum, in my mind, comprises the heart of the museum. But alas, this has undergone changes over the last decade. Gone is the collection of diverse artifacts that were painstakingly compiled over many years by Richard Herrmann, who initially displayed his treasure trove in the Museum of Natural History which was housed in his private residence on Central (Clay) Avenue. At one time the eccentric gentleman scholar displayed the remains of both Julian Dubuque and the Mesquakie chief, Peosta in his home. In 1897 he was the driving force behind the funding and construction of a permanent resting place for both city fathers.

The crude lead mine that was constructed to instruct and to allow the pseudo exploration of a genuine mine of Spain has been transformed into Huck Finn’s Cave. I guess the powers that be are going to use the Mark Twain angle to their full advantage. The stunning painting entitled Early Settlers by Bertrand Adams, a Webster City, Iowa native and artist commissioned by the WPA, still presides over the premises, however the collection of paintings done by local artists has been relocated elsewhere. The old building has retained the River of Dreams Theatre which features a 15 minute film spanning the impact of the River on the area narrated by Garrison Keillor which along with the log roll enhanced by mirrors entertained my children years ago. The authentic native garb and artifacts have been relocated to the museums newest acquisition, the old Diamond Jo Casino portside, now renamed the Diamond Jo National River Center.

The Woodward Riverboat Museum houses a fantastic display of historical artifacts, displays, and information regarding boat building and their uses. Joseph “Diamond Jo” Reynolds, entrepreneur and steamboat owner, relocated his offices from Fulton, Illinois to Dubuque in 1874. Mr. Reynolds portrait can be viewed in the museum’s National River’s Hall of Fame. The Sprague, aka Big Mama of the Mississippi, was built on the premises in 1901. This vessel set a world record for towing 60 barges of coal, a world-wide record that still stands today. A scaled down replica of the vessel is on display as well as various smaller authentic (and not so authentic) river crafts of various periods.

Before the National River Museum came to be, you entered the building via humble wooden plank stairs. Now it is connected to the new building and you just glide right in from inside. The first thing my eyes instinctively search for is the counter my dad use to sit behind. The counter of course is no longer there. After his retirement from the paint business my dad found a home down at the museum, greeting visitors, spewing information on local history, and guiding elementary school kids through the exhibits, regaling them with his fun grandpaesque antics. Back then when I would take my kids to the museum they were going to “Grandpa’s Museum.” My dad, now 87, still works there, regaling and informing countless visitors from all over the planet. That man belongs in the National River’s Hall of Fame.

After our sojourn to the museum we walked across the parking lot to the Diamond Jo Casino for a beer. For shame, Dubuque, don’t you have better things to build and tout down at the historic port? Yes, I know, important revenue, but at what cost and where does all the money really go? But that’s another blog.